I'm Belgian. I quite like it here.
-Access to care: A specialized genderteam in the university hospital in Ghent has psychiatrists, endocrinologists, SRS surgeons, voice coaching, etc. Very professional, smooth, and easy. They treat tons of trans people and I can't praise the individual doctors enough. Prof. Dr. Stan Monstrey is also very adept at SRS, including phalloplasty. Consultations are covered, hormones are covered, SRS is reconized as medically necessary and 90% covered.
-Community support: There's several trans support groups and we inevitably meet other trans people in the hospital.
-Local tolerance level: Belgium is very secularized and most people aren't religious. I'm not super anti-religion but I'm convinced this does wonders for our acceptance. I've never been treated as anything but a girl and never been disrespected. But, still, there's a lot of educating the masses left to do.
Legalities... are possible but I feel sometimes a bit medieval. Downsides I've encountered so far is needing two letters for a name change which then takes 4 months to realize, and the fact a trans person has to be completely sterile and post-srs to be able to change gender markers.
Netherlands is much the same, I think. Not sure.