I thought it might be interesting to describe the transgender program I went through at the VU hospital in Amsterdam. This is in the early 1990's, so things may have changed a bit now, I don't know.
You first had to go see a psychologist. He (at the time at least it was a he) would evaluate whether you were a "genuine case". If yes, you would be on the program and allowed to start taking HRT. If not, you were probably out the door. This would take several sessions. From talking to this man quite a bit (of course) I am pretty sure that if you didn't desire SRS you wouldn't have been considered a "genuine case" and wouldn't have been on the program.
After the psychologist gave the go ahead you would start HRT. You had to fully transition after at most three months on HRT. If you didn't, you would be cutoff from HRT.
Around this time you would also start hair removal. Back then there was no laser hair removal yet, so everything was electrolysis (slow and painful). Most people would also get some form of speech therapy/voice training.
SRS would be pretty much exactly 18 months after you started HRT. If you desired BA it was usually done at the same time as SRS. At the time in the Netherlands you could get your gender legally changed only after SRS. I don't know what the rules are these days.
I am not aware of anyone getting FFS or it being discussed as an option.
So how did you pay for all of this? You didn't have to. Everything was covered by health insurance, except hair removal which was capped to a certain limit. With electrolysis requiring many sessions (for me at least) the limit was reached pretty quickly.
So not counting hair removal with a little luck you could be completely done in about two years, and not paying a dime. Hair removal with electrolysis for me took more than two years, and was not entirely covered by health insurance.