I wore 38DD cup size when I wore bras....no idea of proper size, they were too small that's all I know
I use the extra strength short velcro binder from leslove boat and it does a good enough job, it doesn't bind as well as the 997 from underworks but the huge jump in comfort is worth it to me. I got one size lower than the size chart recommended. It does very much accentuate muffin top with it being short, but with the longer ones they tend to roll up and constantly need adjusting.
To achieve the best look I wear a mens sculpting all in one compression...leotard thing...I got from a local supermarket. That compresses in the chest, stomach, hips, bum and thighs. Then I put the binder over the top. Then I usually wear a t-shirt and an open shirt over the top and it evens out my shape pretty well and drastically reduces the muffin top problem, making my torso more of a fluid shape from chest to stomach, rather than them looking like two separate units, if that makes sense 😛
My very first binder was a zip up from t-kingdom and while I was thrilled with it at the time I now would not recommend them having tried some other brands. They just aren't designed for bigger cup sizes.