Quote from: Shantel on October 15, 2013, 12:57:46 PM
I had to tell the guy at the tire store to just hand tighten them and not use the compressed air gun. If I get a flat out in the boondocks and couldn't change the tire because it's screwed on at 200 foot pounds I'd be screwed.
If the angled side of the nuts and the matching angle in the holes of the rim are clean and grease free, you don't have to tighten them as much.
When need to be taken off, a sharp tap to the wrench will break them free.
Having grease or better yet, anti-seize compound on the bolt threads makes tightening and loosening them a breeze.
But the angled surfaces have to be clean and grease free. Rarely is this done properly.
Matching angled surfaces, when torque is applied, tighten themselves to a very tight fit, but just an outward tap or a sideways snap or tap will loosen then immediately.
If the surfaces have grease, they have to be tightened with more force that actually stretches the bolt and distorts the wheels more than need be.
Done right, the wheels do distort somewhat, but not like they do when overtightened.
This distorts the threads somewhat and will only release as that distortion of the wheel also, is relieved.
If the surfaces are dirty greasy, then the distortion has to be slowly undone.
This takes the applied torque harder to release and more turn before loosening properly.
Drive wheels on Locomotives are held on by one center nut or bolt.
Their accurately done, tapered surfaces, when torque is applied, self tighten.
But supposedly, even fingerprints will ruin the effect. Just what I've heard.
So if they are put on wrong, you'd be derailed...
But thats why wheel nuts are tapered and match the angled surface in the wheel holes.
Done right, they should only have as much torque applied that doesn't stretch and weaken the bolts.
Done enough times, they do break off because of this.
Plus they are harder to thread a nut on and off them when the threads are stretched and don't match.
Ativan
