As mentioned in a couple of my recent posts, I am presently on vacation in Spain but also recovering from  some surgery I had done last Thursday: face lift, revision to the tip of my nose and a couple of other small tweaks to things that were done during my FFS surgery last year.

Overall I am recovering very well but during the surgery, the surgeon decided to replace what were initially supposed to be fully reabsorbable stiches with some nylon stiches requiring manual removal. He did this to insure that the scars were as narrow as possible and I can't criticize the intention. However, when I planned my vacation in Spain just after the surgery, I didn't know I would have to find someone here to remove stiches.

On what has so far been a really nice holiday: beautiful late autumn weather with fantastic light, fabulous colours and an excellent balance between visiting and just relaxing, getting my stiches removed turned out to be quite an adventure.

In the north-west of  Spain where I am right now, most people speak little other than Spanish which I only know a few words of. Yesterday, I tried to explain to the receptionist in our upper category hotel that I needed to see a doctor and he explained that I should go to the hospital. I tried that early this afternoon but in the out-patients area it was packed and in similar situations in the past, even when I spoke the language, it took hours to get any treatment. So I decided to have another attempt at getting an appointment directly with a doctor. 

When I went back to the hotel, I again tried to explain my requirement, ie. have stiches removed. The receptionist was all smiles and explained that he would find a solution. Ten minutes later he told me he had effectively found a solution and that the doctor would come to see me in my room. That sounded great and I was quite relieved.

A few minutes later, there was a knock on the door and what did I see, three ambulance men who had arrived to take me to the hospital again, just one of whom spoke a few words of English. I again tried to explain my needs and they said no problem and asked me to follow them to an ambulance that was waiting outside the hotel. In no time at all, we were on our way, my wife, three ambulance men and me.  At least they avoided using a siren on the way.. 

They took me back to the crowded emergency service at the hospital but this time we came in through the "private entrance" (in a wheelchair...) and after a very short wait I was seen by a doctor who, in spite of her poor English, finally understood what the need was ie. nothing more than having a few stiches removed.

She explained that they couldn't do that there, that I needed to get an appointment with a doctor... I explained that this is exactly what I had tried to do but that the hotel had clearly misunderstood the need. She said she was sorry but there was nothing they could do and I was resigned to starting off from scratch all over again.

However, instead of taking me back to the hotel as I expected, the senior ambulance man wheeled me off to another service where I was presented to a tall and pretty young doctor who just happened to speak excellent English. Turns out she was Spanish born but....both of her parents were Irish!

I again explained what I needed and she said to wait a couple of minutes and that they would look after me. Finally it looked like I was going to get my stiches removed after all!

After a few questions regarding the background to all of this, (I explained!) she asked me to lie down on a treatment bed and I was quickly surrounded by four women, the young Irish-Spanish doctor and 3 others, one of whom who had very heavy make-up on that looked more appropriate for a nightclub than a hospital emergency service...

There was quite a long and very animated discussion in Spanish as they examined all of the incisions and stiches and I was getting worried that they would also remove ones that were not supposed to touched. I again explained that it was only the blue nylon stiches in front of my ears and, apparently satisfied that this was certainly the case, they finally got to work.

Retrospectively I am very glad I got this done sooner rather than later as they had to tug like crazy to get the stiches out. The sensations went from very unpleasant to quite painful (leading me to squeal out in a pain at one stage, in turn leading to the young doctor gently patting my hand from that point onwards...) but they did get the job done and I at the end I was  very relieved that I got it done here as it could otherwise have been very, very complicated.

As it happens, looking back, the whole thing was quite extraordinarily funny. I was already going back and forth between laughter and tears (from the pain) while it was all going on and it really reminded of something straight out of a Pedro Almodovar film. 

Other than that, travelling as a woman with a swollen face, quite a bit of bruising and a passport saying I am man (which I have to present every time we arrive in a different hotel) has also created a few rather comical situations, wrong-footing all the receptionists we have run into so far but they have been charming about it...To date no problems of any kind.

No doubt a few more stories before this is over but beating today's episode will be a hard act to beat...
Hugs from sunny Spain.
Donna

P.S. As I live in a under-developed part of the world, I have a thing called a European Health Insurance Card which means I didn't have to pay a penny for either the ambulance or the treatment at the hospital. Our (by definition) inefficient national health services sort out the payments directly between themselves..

Gave me a laugh over breakfast!

Have a great holiday.

Quote from: Cindy on October 31, 2013, 04:19:14 PM
Gave me a laugh over breakfast!

Have a great holiday.

Glad you enjoyed it Cindy. It's the sort of story that gets better at every telling, when real memories and things you just might have dreamed up become intertwined...

Actually while I'm at it, another amusing little story from yesterday. While checking out of our hotel in Madrid, we waited a few minutes for a young couple to finish with the receptionist. The girl was a pretty young thing in her early twenties with deep black hair, slim build and beautiful skin. Yet, when she opened her mouth , she sounded like a quite deep voiced guy. The apparent misfit was weird but is actually quite frequent in Spain where a lot of women seem to have very deep voices. As it happens, one of the female receptionists had a voice that was almost as deep as the young lady I just referred to and, unless there are far more TG women here than in any other corner of the planet, like 2 out of 10  ,  it has be a genetic thing.
Anyway, they make me feel like I have the voice of an angel 
Viva Espagna!!!
Donna

I have never had any real inclination to maintain a blog or otherwise comment regularly on what I am up to. Main reason is I don't have that much to say but the time available is also a major consideration. This period of vacation is a bit different for a whole load of reasons.

First of all, it's my first real vacation since Oct 2010 and also the first time I have travelled outside of France as a woman  In 2011 and 2012 I was a total mess, recovering first from upper face FFS and the following year lower face surgery. My appearance was the big issue in 2011. For the better part of a week, I looked like I had been hit in the face by a runaway train, things getting progressively better after that.

Last year, facial function was the issue. After the chin and jaw surgery plus a face-lift that I have just redone, I could hardly open my mouth for several days and took several weeks before I could eat anything other than very soft foods. I didn't look too good either but not as bad as in 2011.

This year has been a picnic by comparison and while I'm still a bit of a mess, with quite a bit of bruising on the lower part of my left cheek and neck, maybe because of the previous experiences, I have decided I don't care. Also, my appearance is improving by the day which brings me to today's little story.

First of all, it was yet another absolutely delightful day. We arrived in a town called Trujillo around lunchtime , eating our midday meal in warm sunshine on a most beautiful plaza. Many of the most famous "Conquistadores" came from Trujillo, notably Francisco Pizarro, and it looks like time more or less stopped there in the 16nth century. The place was nothing less than stunning, at a general level but also with hundreds of  little details that were a joy for the eye, like a stork's nest lodged in a most unlikely place or a whole cascade of different roof styles leading away into the distance.

We left in the second part of the afternoon for our day's final destination, a town call Caceres which is just a 30min drive from Trujillo. Finding the hotel in the maze of narrow streets was quite a challenge and got me just a little bit annoyed at one stage but it all worked out in the end and again the place was literally breathtaking, from the magnificent and very lively Plaza Mayor to the little streets and beautiful bulidings of a town that was initially built by the Romans, rebuilt and developed by the Moors and finally further developed by Christian nobles, again including many Conquistadores, in the centuries following  the "Reconquista",

There was only an hours' light left when we arrived (the one problem when travelling at this time of the year), however that was long enough to find a concert of Galician folk music in a bar in the historic heart of the city. Galicia is a region in the northwest of Spain that has maintained it's Celtic heritage and the music, while distinctive, is quite close to Irish music. Anyway, with a couple of Caiparinhas and a very enthusiatic crowd, it was a most delightful little surprise to finish off the afternoon.

We went to dinner in a restaurant just beside our hotel and this was the first time it registered so strongly that I was being so completely perceived as a woman. The waiter was particularly friendly (already the case yesterday evening but that guy was also clearly very, very gay.. ), bringing us a complimentary digestive drink at the end of the meal and most of all, the little detail that blew my mind, without us asking, he handed the bill to my wife so that she could pay. That has got to be one of the most validating experiences I have had since I started on this journey.

With that, after another particularly full day, I think it is time to get some sleep...
Hugs
Donna   

I remember when I complained to BF that my voice was too deep and he said it was no problem and if I went to southern Europe many woman had voices as deep if not deeper than mine!

BTW I'm enjoying your 'holiday diary'.

Love and Hugs to you and your fantastic wife.

Cindy

Ah!  Galicia.   

The home of red-headed and freckled Spaniards.

I love reading your updates, Donna. Spain has to be one of my favorite places to have visited.  I only spent about a week in Madrid and the surrounding country,  but I found it very relaxing and a great place to get lost.  I am a bit of a history buff and enjoyed the galleries and museums. 

I am also glad to hear you got your stitches out.  Your postscript at the end regarding insurance made me chuckle given my location in the world. 

Best,
Toni

Thanks for your feedback ladies!
I was beginning to think I would have to invent a story about something terrible happening to me to get some sort of reaction to my prose, like being refused entry in a hotel or a restaurant or, a fate worse than death, being sexually assaulted by a truck full of Guardia Civil. OK, I know that this is no laughing matter though, so, just to demonstrate there is still scope for things wrong in other areas, I'll start today's episode with the sort of thing that can destroy your day if you allow it to.

As mentioned in my last post, yesterday, having gone around in circles for quite some time and getting instructions from my Sat Nav to turn impossibly tight corners and go down impossibly narrow streets, more suited to a horse or a donkey than an Audi A4,  I actually gave up and ended up parked about 500m from the hotel.

This morning, in order to avoid a return trip with the suitcases, I asked the receptionist for detailed instructions which I duly got. I know I arrived within 50m of the hotel and maybe even closer, but yet again, the Nav Sat gave me an instruction that sent me the wrong way and since you have zero forward visibility in such streets, I quickly found myself actually inside the remparts of the historic centre. The streets were so narrow it was quite unbelieveable and at one stage, trying to get around a particulary tight corner, the inevitable happened, I scratched the car on something I hadn't seen down low, beneath the level of the doors. It' not too bad a scratch as I was going DEADSLOW but it's a hire car and they really take you to the cleaners on such incidents. I should however be able to find the required paint between now and the end of our vacation and as it is very low on the body work and as there are already quite a few other scratches, I may get away with it. To finish this little story, after this incident I again gave up and ended out parked again in almost the same spot as yesterday when we arrived..  

Otherwise, we arrived today in the town of Merida, a major Roman city in its heyday with some very impressive historical monuments, notably the Roman theatre which we visited late afternoon on another perfect day weather wise. The light was again fabulous and between that and the late afternoon shadows, it was quite magical.

Thinking about the last few days, we started with the late Renaisaissance and Baraque glories of Salamanca, then on to the medieval and early renaissance charm of Trujillo and Caceres and today, we went back another 1000 years in time. This for me is something that makes Europe so incredibly special. Because so much was built with stone, you are surrounded permanently by the history of mankind and for me, when I have the the time to relax and take it in, it is always a deeply moving experience.   

The other thing of note is just how incredibly warm it is, 21 -23 °C and no doubt a good deal hotter again when sheltered from the wind. I had however anticipated on these sort of conditions and  packed a couple of nice long, spagetti strap, summer dresses just in case.

The problem is that for Spanish women it appears that it is already winter which means they are all wearing long sleeved attire, tights and knee boots!    I really don't know how they do it but I had a similar experience in Japan at exactly the same time of the year in 2009. In the Kansai region where we spent quite a lot of time, temperatures were still between 25 - 30°C most days, which is nice summer weather where I live. However, for the fashion conscious Japanese, since summer was officially over, they were all geared up in winter clothes...

Anyway tomorrow we move on to Seville, 200kms south of here and I am hoping that in Andulusia, you don't look like some kind of country bumpkin (red-neck for the Yanks.. ) if you dare go out in summer wear at this time of the year.

To finish, weight conscious ladies that we are, after a few days eating far too much with helpings in Spain similar to what you get in the US, we cut back drastically on our food today. So much so that I am now starving but, Spain being Spain, we'll have to wait until around 21h00 before we can go out and hunt down some dinner..

Warm regards to all from sunny Spain!
Donna

P.S. 

Jamie. There wasn't a redhead to be seen among the Galician musiciens but the lead musicien, a pretty young woman, was almost on fire, literally radiating energy!

Toni. As I am sure you fully realized , all health insurance systems appearing in this diary are fictitious. Any resemblance to real health insurance systems, living or dead, is purely coincidental... Like how the hell could anyone conceivably imagine a better system than the private, non-obligatory insurance that has held sway in the US up until now? 

Jamie again. I'm absolutely not trying to provoke a debate here.  It's just my perverse sense of humour getting the better of me..

Cindy. Your BF is absolutely right and I have never felt so comfortable with my own voice as here. I may even audition for a place as a soprano in a choir before going home!

Donna Elvira - I love Spain.  I miss vacationing there.  At the Balcon de Europa

Great report I love to read it.
We are next week in Malaga, Spain. I will carefully open my ears to hear how deep the voices of the women are :-)

Lara

Continuing my little dairy of our holiday in Spain, yesterday we arrived in Seville and following the experience in Caceres, I got within hitting distance of our hotel and then parked the car in the first 24/24 car park I found.

An excellent decision as it turns out as getting around the nightmare of the narrow streets in the old center of Seville in a car is not for the fainthearted. Even our taxi driver struggled at times and we were left wondering how anyone could avoid quickly wrecking their car in such an environment.

Other than that, Seville is quite simply outstanding and yet again I was left jaw hanging from the sheer beauty of so much that we have seen, from the delightful little streets and plazas of the Barrio de Santa Cruz (including the particularly pretty Plaza de Dona Elvira.. ) to the splendor of the Alcazar. The cathedral is for tomorrow morning.

More than anything though, both my wife and I were really floored by two Flamenco sessions we have been to see, one yesterday evening and another this evening.

Yesterday evening , totally immersed in the raw emotion of the music and the dance, I ended out sobbing my eyes out. Not just tears, I was really sobbing with every part of my being and very happy that that it was dark in the room so that no one could see what was going on.

Flamenco music is very melancholic and as someone here already correctly observed, I have a very melancholic side which I constantly struggle with, successfully most of the time as it happens, but certain types of music really get to me and Flamenco is one of those types of music

The other face of Flamenco is the dance, which looks, and most of all feels, like an act of defiance against the melancholy expressed in the music. So much energy, almost violent at times and last night, the female dancer was quite extraordinary in this expression of defiance against whatever, destiny, the gods, the mystery of our existence...

Since my last post I realize that the beginning  could have been perceived as somewhat offensive by certain people and if this is the case, I would like it make it clear that I am all too aware how much suffering many of the people on this forum have been through. As it happens I have had a few pretty dark moments myself but I guess I have arrived at a stage in life when I am making a deliberate choice not to dwell on this side of things and, as much as possible, enjoy what life can offer. A bit like the Flamenco dancers, in spite of being terribly aware of how fragile my existence is, I choose to live my life as seems fit to me and if I go down in flames, I will at least have lived a full life.

I guess that is in part what I'm trying to express in this little vacation diary. Yes, we were born with more problems to deal with than many (even if there are still plenty of people who are dealt a much harsher hand by destiny) but  even then, the only thing really worth focusing on is how to make the best of this situation.

Not only that, but you can even transition and continue to have a life. As it happens, apart from a well needed break in a most beautiful part of the world (not complete as work is constantly in the background or even foreground at times), the most remarkable thing about the last week is that I have been able to go about life as a woman without anyone giving a second glance at me.

It has been grueling at times but it would seem that I am finally there and as the last few bruises progressively disappear, it can only get better.
With that, it is quite late and time for some well needed sleep.
Hugs
Donna

Donna, 

I love your writing.  It is a lost art, and refreshing when one comes across someone so expressive.

When done well, Flamenco is definitely something experienced with the soul, viscerally.  I saw a performance in a small alley restaurant in Madrid a few years ago. What I remember most is the music,  the very real presentation and portrayal of gender roles on stage (very beautiful,  by the way), and the power of the woman expressed by the syncopated click - clack of her heels. Combined with the wonderful paella and tempranillo, the experience was nothing short of magical.

Wonderful memories for both of us.  Thanks for sharing,  and allowing me to relive my moment, as well.

Toni

Thanks Toni,
Writing has been an important emotional outlet for me since forever. I love language and playing around with words and is it happens, in my present job position, being able to write effectively is essential as I am interacting with people all over the world that I don't see very often.
Other than that, just wanted to confirm that we went to highly reputed Flamenco shows and having seen less polished performances, like in other arts, there is a huge difference between the really good performers and the others. I think we had the good fortune to see and hear some really top class artists, both musiciens and dancers. If you ever get to Seville, the "Casa de la Memoria " shows are the ones to go for...
Yesterday we arrived in Cordoba, another exquisite city and having spent yesterday afternoon just strolling around in the narrow streets, with every turn in the road producing some new tableau to delight the eye, this morning we will be visiting a couple of the major monuments, notably the Mesquita.
Maybe time to write a bit more this evening but I basically have to work this afterrnoon as somthing very important cropped up since last week. A shame but that's the way it is...
Hugs
Donna

i love Spain and have had many outings dressed, all positive.
plus you get to enjoy
Jamon
Manchego
and Rioja
safe and interesting travels....

España PLV!
What parts have you visited? I personally loved Barcelona, and not just for the football team. Both Madrid, a large, modern, cosmopolitan city dotted with historic building, while Barcelona has the feel of a quaint seaside down that expands itself more modern as you go out. I also liked Toledo and Zaragosa, but then again those were the only 4 cities I've been to in Spain. I still consider myself a hispanophile.

Dear Donna,

We visited today Ronda which is a maybe an hour south of Córdoba. It is an interesting city with a long history and an amazing cave nearby. It is worth a visit 8-)

Kind regards from Málaga,

Lara

Quote from: Lara1969 on November 06, 2013, 03:48:12 PM
Dear Donna,

We visited today Ronda which is a maybe an hour south of Córdoba. It is an interesting city with a long history and an amazing cave nearby. It is worth a visit 8-)

Kind regards from Málaga,

Lara

Hi Lara,
Thanks for the info but due to work obligations, the amount of time I have available has decreased quite dramatically this week. Tomorrow we move on to Grenada and I just hope I will have to at least  enough time to visit the Alhambra. However, recommendation for recommendation, since you are not far from here, if you have never been to Cordoba, come here. The city is really pretty and the Mezquita, which we visited this morning, is one of the most remarkable buildings I have ever seen, a mixture of 9th century Moorish architecture through to Baroque. Really outstanding!
I'm also just back from only the second really good Spanish meal we've had. I have loved pretty well everything about Spain so far....except the food which is mostly very ordinary and far too oily for my taste. That being said, olive oil is certainly good for my skin right now and we have been eating far more fruit and vegetables than usual which can't do any harm either.
One way or another, enjoy your stay!
Donna

P.S. Are you travelling as a woman?  I have been pleasantly surprised to be called Signora XXXX by hotel staff in spite of my passport saying I'm a man!

Dear Donna,

Yes I travel as Lara but because I still work as man my passport still says "male" as sex :-)

We visited the Alhambra in Granada today, really an amazing place. Later this day my wife and me did some hiking at Los Cahorros a wonderful and quiet place in the hills near Granada. People looked sometimes courious at me because my passing is not perfect (still missing the FFS) and I wore a skirt and hiking shoes and a shoulderfree top but in matching colors XD I felt very comfortable and I smiled a lot so the people were very kind
We will maybe visit Córdoba next week. Our schedule is not fixed we decide on a daily basis what we do.

Lara

Quote from: Lara1969 on November 07, 2013, 01:35:49 PM
Dear Donna,

Yes I travel as Lara but because I still work as man my passport still says "male" as sex :-)

We visited the Alhambra in Granada today, really an amazing place. Later this day my wife and me did some hiking at Los Cahorros a wonderful and quiet place in the hills near Granada. People looked sometimes courious at me because my passing is not perfect (still missing the FFS) and I wore a skirt and hiking shoes and a shoulderfree top but in matching colors XD I felt very comfortable and I smiled a lot so the people were very kind
We will maybe visit Córdoba next week. Our schedule is not fixed we decide on a daily basis what we do.

Lara

Hi Lara,
That is quite an amazing coincidence as, if you were there in the afternoon, our paths certainly crossed. We arrived at 14h00 and left at 18h00 and like you, were really impressed. We were all the the happier as the light was very poor when when we left Cordoba in the morning but was particularly good in the afternoon thus adding much to the pleasure of the visit.
We finished our afternoon at the Genaralife with the sun already very low in the sky and the most fantastic colours and shadows. I haven't had the pleasure of visiting the garden of Eden but doubt it could be a lot better than Generalife yesterday afternoon, coulour & perfume of the flowers, sound of water trickling or flowing everywhere, autumn reds and yellows of the trees and of course the beauty of the constructions with all the delicate moorish carving. Really a very hard act to beat and for me, it is so far a toss up between the Meszquita at Cordoba and the Alhambra and terms of the most impressive experience, this on top of many, many other exquisite sights.
This has actually got to be one of the best times of the year to visit. Weather still beautiful but not too hot (in Cordoba where it was hitting 26°C, I finally swam against the current and wore a sleeveless summer dress.. ), crowds gone but still enough people to create some life.
Only real weakness is the food and after a couple of weeks, you understand why you don't see Spanish restaurants outside of Spain. That being said, we have had a couple of excellent fish meals.
We will be  back in France on Monday with a trip throught the Sierra Nevada and a visit of Toledo still ahead of us. Today, I will be stuck in my hotel room for a series of web meetings that starts shortly and will finish towards the end of the afternoon... 
Enjoy the rest of your stay Signora Lara!
Hugs
Donna

P.S. I even managed to get a little Audi paint repair kit for the car while staying in Cordoba so I shouldn't have any problem with the car. Driving around the narrow streets of Grenada, from the Alhambra down to our hotel in the center was another nighmarish experience which had me very relieved when we finally arrived at destination..

Ow, when did I miss this?

If annybody decides to hit the North of the country, I'm available for touristic guiding, xD