I used to have SO much trouble with this but I have finally perfected it. I absolutely love makeup and watch beauty videos every single day.
First thing's first, it is important that you have the RIGHT makeup products AND the right BRUSHES to apply your makeup! People really overlook the importance of good brushes.. I did too. Also the method and technique in which you blend/pat your makeup is very important. In addition, something as simple as choosing the wrong foundation/concealer type or applying with the wrong brush can make all the difference in effing up your makeup. For me personally I had chosen the right makeup products but my makeup still came out cakey, and my shadow would still show, UNTIL I found the correct brush to apply makeup.
I currently have normal skin, in between dry and oily. Remember different skin types need different types of makeup. I would talk to a Sephora associate to help you with choosing the right makeup.
Things you will need:
- A good primer.
- A reddish-orange lipstick. Make sure it has an orange tint to it. Don't just go for pure red lipsticks.
- A good FULL-coverage foundation or concealer that can apply heavy but not come out cakey.
- A good brush (I believe this is the most important). Do NOT use a beauty blender for covering shadow. Beauty blenders blend out SO well that your shadow actually ends up peaking through.
- A good translucent powder to lock everything in place. If you want a little more coverage you will go for full-coverage powders as opposed to translucent powders. Translucent powders lock your makeup but do not add coverage.
- A good makeup setting spray to finish everything off. I believe makeup setting sprays help a ton. Not only do they set your makeup on all day, they also "blend" all your makeup together almost as if all the makeup is "one."
You will essentially want to apply your makeup in the order I listed the products above.
The products I use and recommend for people with my skin type:
- Urban decay Porefessional primer
- I honestly use any orange-red lipstick in CVS. Just be sure to apply the lipstick color on areas where blue shadow shows ONLY. E.g. don't apply the lipstick all over the upper lip, only on areas where there is actually shadow on the upper lip. If you add the lipstick on areas where you do not have shadow, the presence of the lipstick in those areas will only accentuate the areas where there IS shadow.
- Tarte amazonian clay foundation. This foundation is full coverage AND doesn't crease or cake. An alternative would be the Nars creamy concealer. Again, full coverage but not cakey.
- I use the Sephora Pro brush number 57. This is my HOLY GRAIL makeup applicator to conceal beard shadow. Basically when blending your foundation/concealer over the red/orange lipstick, you want to press the brush over and over on your face. Do NOT circle the brush on your skin because gliding the brush along the skin will just move the makeup/concealer and your beard shadow will start showing. Make sure to press, press, press, pat, pat, pat.
- Setting/translucent powders I find a good variety work and people have their own preferences. I would talk to a Sephora associate. Be honest and say you have beard shadow and are looking for a powder that can help set/cover your foundation without coming off cakey.
- For setting spray, the tried and true Urban decay setting spray!
Remember you need to use the perfect products, applicator, and blending method. Anything wrong in that formula and your shadow area will come out cakey. Don't slack with your makeup products and applicators! Remember the goal is to hide your shadow and PRESERVE your passability in public, right? You do not want to get clocked simply because you are slacking on finding the right products. Hope I helped! Good luck!
