Moni,
Over the counter stuff is very weak, over-priced, and did nothing for me. Prescription Retin A is .25%, .5%, or 1%. Typically, you are started with the lowest precentage, and you slowly work your way up. There are tons of sites online where women talk about how they use it and what to expect, so support is easy to find. Everybody's skin is different, but the worst that happened to me was I used too much, too fast, and my skin was red, and flakier than expected, and a little sunburned-feeling for a while. What it does is stimulate cell-turnover and collagen production, and works like a mild chemical peel. Go slow, use a pea sized dab for the whole face, moisturize with something like Noxzema, and away you go. My little lines filled in within weeks, and are almost gone around my mouth, and major wrinkles are MUCH better, too. Sun damage is gone. One needs to avoid laser and direct sun while using it, or that will multiply the effects, so I use it religiously in the winter, and the benefits last all summer long. I also use it on rainy days, or at night, when I know I will be showering in the morning during sunnier months. As I said, the benefits don't stop when not using it, once 'bad' cells are gone, they are gone. Collagen can re-diminish, but not very quickly, and we should be doing everything we can to keep collagen levels good for many health reasons, not just vanity, lol. I also take biotin, mostly for hair, nails, lashes, but it also supports skin health.
Prescription Retin A use revitalized my skin surfaces sufficiently that I stopped worrying about my facial skin completely. Once my facial hair is long gone, and my FFSs done and healed, I will revisit resurfacing and microdermabrasion options if think there will be a benefit. As I have mentioned before, I am somebody that will do everything possible to maximize my appearance, but I have figured out the order that best suits my needs, so I am chill about it now. I tend to think in terms of fixing the deeper issues first, then building on those changes over time. Of course, facial hair removal trumps all other issues, for obvious reasons. I was able to get my then endo to write a prescription for Retin A, on the grounds that my hormonal situation was causing skin problems that Retin A is known to treat. Creative prescribers know the workarounds, ha ha!
Also, I found that micronized, bio-identical progesterone helped my skin, too. There are dermatologists that prescribe estrogen/progesterone formulations in cream or lotion form, and swear they are a fountain of youth for skin care. It sounds kinda gross, but after my vaginal P suppositories have dissolved completely, I often dip in my fingers and spread some over my face and hands. The P is suspended in an essential fatty acid base, so the effect is quite nice on whatever tissues they come into contact with. Before the suppositories, I had Prometrium soft-gels, and I would poke a pin into one and squeeze out a few drops to blend into my face while moisturizing. Prescriptions for P are usually higher than needed, since many girls vary their dosages over each month, so the extra is usable for topical application. I felt it helped my lips get fatter very quickly, so I covered them with a thin layer of it at bedtime every night. It also promotes better sleep patterns, which was help I truly needed at the time. I grew an actual upper lip while doing this, something neither of my sisters ever grew, and they are sooo jellious, lol..
It is advisable that everybody uses a UV blocker to prevent more damage, and there are awesome moisturizing UV blockers with mild tints for everyday use. BB creams are a very subtle way to balance skin tone, soften skin, and protect skin from UV damage while not looking like makeup at all. As you may have noticed, cis women often use multiple makeup approaches, one being the 'what, me? I'm not wearing any makeup at all' look, lol. Look for 'nude' shades that match you skin tone, and off you go!
Hope this helps!
Missy