I'm from South Africa, and though I grew up white, middle-class, our political and economic realities didn't really lend themselves to transition, or even understanding what being trans was. As it was, a big part of why I'm only transitioning now is because I grew up with a severely skewed view of transsexuality and consequently myself due to the influence of the state religion: Dutch Reformed. It was only when I went to Taiwan to teach English (aged 24) that I got access to proper internet and could start learning.
Things haven't improved much for the poorer sections of the population, and because of limited access to information infrastructure like broadband, there is little awareness of trans-issues. Programs like Oprah and others, having recently featured trans episodes, have raised awareness somewhat, but it is still very-much a taboo in a country where sections of the population still burn 'witches'.
Access to care is ... patchy, at best. There are a handful of people in Johannesburg and Cape-Town that have some experience, but there is no real standard of care. People tend to make it up as they go along. There is a unit at the Academic hospital in Pretoria that studies transsexuality and does about 4 surgeries a year, but they are VERY old fashioned (circa 1970 SOC, maybe) and apparently their surgical work is also not highly regarded, as they use a much older method prone to complication and error.
That said, if you can get past the waiting-list, lie your way past the psychologists and stay sane for long enough, you can have surgery for about R500 - 50 USD. ... as long as you don't mind them cutting out a part of your intestines to fashion a vagina. As for FtM, nada, that I know of.
Ultimately, you transition privately in ZA, or not at all, and with limited choice, you take your chances, and go to Thailand for surgery. Many people do what I do and attempt to go overseas to transition, but that of course brings a whole different set of difficulties along with it. In ZA, transition is really just for the rich. Of course, you can do a street-transition like in many other places in the world, but we all know how terribly wrong those can go.
~Simone.