Well, I can see why you would get mad at him not apologizing... but, I have a feeling that isn't where the real anger is coming from.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but are you more angry that he clocked you? And called you by your former gender?
If this is the problem.. well, you can't really blame him (you can definitely be upset about it! I would! ... but... you can't expect the rest of the world to know how to handle us...)
Not everyone is really up to date on how to refer to the trans community. Even we get confused a lot of the time!! Normally people just go with whatever they identify the persons born gender (and, normally that isn't really a problem... you can ~and many do~ live your entire life without running into an issue from that). Most people simply have never had contact with trans people (that they know of)... they MIGHT have seen one from a distance, but actually getting to a point of talking to them? Or even further to a discussion on proper etiquette?
Then there is the issue of if you weren't passing... well, at least if it was me, I would want to know.
If I ever go full time and this happened, I would definitely be upset... but, the anger would be directed more at the sittuation... I wouldn't direct it at the waiter (except for the not apologizing thing).