My brother was in Dubai 2 years ago, his a typical straight white guy so no problems for him of course. I was going to Japan, but even if I had the chance I would not go because it too much a risk for me.
from what I understand Dubai is very westernized compared to the rest of the country, however it still a arabic country where homosexuality is illigal and can be punished VERY harsh. sure some gay people go to Dubai, they do have well-known gay sports where they "expect to meet gay people", but since it illigal it all about gambling and doing it in secret. I think people who comes from other arabic countrys or small city nearby think dubai is like "gay heaven" but compared but comming from sweden I dont think you will find it very lgbt friendly at all, one of my friend from Denmark use to go to dubai and he did not even dare to chat with me because if anyone found out we talked on a lgbt site he could be punished while being in the country.
it not only the gay rights, sure theres also rules for things like kissing in public and other stuff which you would have to avoid not to get in trouble but this is a huge problem.
of transgender I dont know so much, I dont really think transgender as FTMs exist in Dubai. by meaning "exist" I sure dont mean there not there, sure there is ftm living there but I dont think theres
any awareness that they exist. In Iran transexuals exist in very binary terms where homosexuality is still punished by death, but in Dubai I dont know for sure, no matter if they exist or not the main worry is if you can be mistaked for being gay/lesbian, and for some who do not see diffrence of being trans and being queer that could be very dangerous and you wont have any rights.
So in generay I would not go, I never heard trans people going to Dubai, I heard one or maybe 2 going to egypt without problems, and other anti-lgbt countrys so its not like it always imposible however its always a risk you take and alot of stress to carry if you are to be there for over a year and cant visit sites like this, or discuss any problems on being trans and general worry about if anyone found out.
also if you are on homones I dont think you can use these while being in dubai. Dubai got stick rules of drugs, and you would need some paper on why you take this with you if you went there, already there theres risk in the airport and if you dont bring it with you, I doubt the chance you get homones in Dubai.
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If you visit for a shorter period 100% stealth, passable and with all your legal documents and surgery and so been done you could probably go but it still a risk you take.
without theres no way you should go, and I really hate to say that as a person who really want to visit middle east myself.
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