You can take estrogen without antiandrogens, it just doesn't work as well for many of us. For some high estrogen blood levels will suppress testesterone and you don't need an antiandrogen at all. If you take estrogen only you'll know if you like it, and pass the hrt requirement.
There's srs surgeons in Thailand all the way down to US$2300, but the problem is finding much out about them. For the big names you can find heaps of posts and photos, so you have a fair idea of what you're getting and the risks.
You can get both psych letters in Thailand, but you may have a problem getting letters with no hrt. I've heard of people getting them without social transition, but not no hrt.